Fur on the Catwalk

By Vanessa Friedman
There was one trend in Milan that overwhelmed all others. One trend that surpassed, say, a love of 1970s shades like purple, teal and mustard, or an embrace of tuxedo dressing, or a strange attraction to gold pleated palazzo pants, all trends which appeared on many, but not every, runway. This trend showed up on nearly every catwalk and in nearly every presentation and next season, like it or not, will be impossible to ignore.

That trend was fur, and though some of it was fake (see Prada and Bottega Veneta) and some of it was “eco” (see Emporio Armani, though what exactly “eco” fur is was never defined), most of it was very, very real.

Now, before you go and say, “But there is fur on the runway every autumn/winter, especially in Milan, home of traditional skins houses,” know this: even given that truth, it is still impossible to remember a season that involved so much animal attraction. The lone hold-outs were Jil Sander, where Raf Simons was busy exploring the technical side of skiwear and couture, and Valextra, where the newest launch was the “Madison”, a cross between a structured handbag and a briefcase. But everywhere else, as far as the eye could see: fox and raccoon and chinchilla and mink and sable and skunk. And not just on coats.

There were floor-length fur skirts at Giorgio Armani; intarsia furs at Versace; furs in all colours of the rainbow at Gucci; fur bibs at Prada. There were sheepskin spike-heeled boots and big smooshy bags at Bally; Mongolian lamb cross-body totes at Furla and Mongolian lamb sleeves on cashmere sweaters at Ballantyne; mink fur booties at Jimmy Choo; and mink stiletto sandals at René Caovilla. There were even matching white fox bags and boots at Tod’s. A girl could be forgiven for thinking she had taken a wrong turn at the catwalks and wandered on to the set of Wild Kingdom.

The question, of course, is why, and for that we go to Tommaso Bruso, the chief executive of Furla. “It’s the perception of value,” he said. “Brands need to show consumers what they are paying for, and this is one way to do it: by investing heavily in materials.”

But aren’t they afraid of a backlash? Before the shows, the animal rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) sent around a group mailing describing, in graphic terms, the problems they saw with fur, and young actresses/role models such as Natalie Portman and Emma Watson are vocally anti-fur.
The answer, pretty much everywhere, was: “no”. They did their due diligence, they are satisfied with their suppliers, the ethical questions were asked and answered. Get ready for things to heat up, in every sense of the word.
For more news on the shows, visit Vanessa Friedman’s blog, www.ft.com/materialworld

Buy up fur before it's too late!

Fur sales soar amid fears over rising pelt prices - despite PETA protests at New York Fashion Week

By JENNIFER MADISON

Animal rights group PETA may have been using New York Fashion Week to protest against the use of fur, but their aggressive campaigns don't seem to have had an impact on sales.

Demand for animal skins is higher than ever, according to industry insiders, who credit the surge in sales to designers who increasingly use them in collections, and interest from China, which is responsible for 70 per cent of global fur sales.  

But the growing trend for fur is sparking a rise in wholesale prices, with a predicted increase of 15-20 per cent this year.

Animal magic: Fur is soaring in price as trend-setting labels like Michael Kors fuel Chinese demand, which is responsible for 70 per cent of global sales

The average price of some mink pelts has climbed as high as 20 per cent in the past two months alone, according to data quoted in the New York Post.

And designers have reported that the finest quality pelts are commanding prices of up to 50 per cent more than usual.

The spike in the cost of fur follows a 10 per cent rise in 2010, a spokesman from North American Fur Auctions revealed.

Retailers are expected to cope with the increase by passing it on to shoppers.

Intermix CEO Khajak Keledjian told the paper: 'People are ordering their fur earlier in the season than ever because they're afraid of what they'll have to pay if they wait until the following week.'

PETA launched a series of campaigns against the use of fur this week, in a bid to harness attention from the press in New York for Fashion Week.

The animal rights group unveiled several celebrity-endorsed posters that bore the tagline: 'Fur? I'd rather go naked.'

And Project Runway's Tim Gunn backed a new bid to ban the use of animal pelts at New York Fashion Week on Friday.

He said: 'I'm on a campaign to get as many fashion designers as possible to stop using it. I'd just like to sit with them and have a talk and ask: "Is it really necessary?"'

PETA also threatened to storm designer Donna Karan's headquarters in Manhattan during fashion week with the excruciating sound of screaming rabbits in protest of her use of the animals' skins.

Fur continues to be heavily favoured by the fashion set however, with the industry's matriarch, Anna Wintour, regularly spotted in fur coats.

And if the latest collections are any indication, it appears fashion designers are using fur more than ever, with Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta using it in their collections.

Animal skins aren't the only thing affecting designers' production costs. Earlier this week it was revealed the cost of cotton was set to soar as well.

Rising costs of labour and raw materials were said to be to blame.

Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1357993/Fur-sales-soar-despite-PETA-protests-amid-fears-rising-pelt-prices.html#ixzz1EaMKL8rm

Fur Buying Guide

A fabulous coat is an essential piece that helps complete any feminine wardrobe. They are practical items as well as products that spell luxury and style. They perform the dual purpose of keeping you warm from the cold, chilly winds and more importantly, make you look elegant and chic. Just by simply slipping on the right coat can elevate your beauty and confidence!




Choosing which type of fur coat to buy can be a hard task, so here is a quick guide:

Sable:
Sable is one of the most luxurious furs available which a rich cultural history and tradition behind it. Jackie Kennedy worse a sable trimmed coat to President Kennedy's Inauguration. It was even worn by the Russian Royal Family for a long time as a way of distinguishing themselves from the common people due to its exorbitant cost. The sable fur that adorned the shoulders of the Russian royalty was embellished with beautiful diamonds, pure gold and silver.

Nowadays, there are a few types of sable used for making coats. The best is considered to be from Barguzin Valley in Russia. Yeniseyskiy sable comes in different shades of brown. There can also be a dash of bright, vivid silver visible and generally lighter in color than Barguzin. Also, it showcases a lesser number of silver hairs as compared to the former. The third renowned kind of sable is the Canadian sable that is used by fashion houses around the world. Chinese and Japanese sables are deemed to be of the lowest quality.



Mink:

Mink fur also originated from Russia. It is derived from the hairs present on the body of the mink, which is a type of weasel. What sets this particular fur apart from all other kinds is that the hair on the body of the mink is of the exact same length. This fur is stunning to look at as there is no discrepancy when it comes to varying hair lengths, giving it a smooth finish. It is formed of perfectly proportioned hair. This is a very easily usable fur which makes it the most preferred choice for making different items of clothing like coats, jackets, capes, etc. as it gives an understated, elegant look.



Fox:

Fox fur has been patronized and appreciated in all major European countries in the centuries gone by. It is said to denote luxury, opulence and extravagance. Fox fur is readily available and used frequently by fashion designers. There are innumerable colour choices in the case of fox fur. Colour choices ranging from pure white to jet black depending on the tastes of the customer. There is a dramatic elegance that comes with wearing this fur.

Fur Fan Liz Hurley

Elizabeth Hurley wearing a heavenly 'Ice Queen' outfit of white fur and lavender gown at a Grey Goose fundraiser in London. Previously, she was the face of Seattle-based mink coat producers Blackglama and it seems she has stayed loyal to the fur wearing cause. Copy Liz's style with your own mink vest 28 In White Mink Vest w/Platinum Fox Shawl Collar USA Made