By Katya Kazakina
Unlike many of his colleagues, Russian-born fashion designer Leonid Gurevich had a strict no-access policy for his New York runway show at the cavernous Angel Orensanz Foundation on Sept. 9.
“I never let anyone backstage,”
“When I create a dream, I am not interested in anyone also seeing crumpled sheets, dentures in a glass
and a chamber pot under a bed.”
bathed the stone walls up to the vaulted ceiling. High above, the pointed arches were lit with blue,
pink and purple. Women in floor-length gowns and men in fedoras sipped champagne.
Gurevich’s “Tribute” collection was a homage to the wasp- waisted Russian film star Lyudmila Gurchenko (1935-2011), who wore Gurevich’s theatrical creations during the last years of her life. It was one of the more than 300 shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week, which ends on Sept. 13.
“Femininity is focal point in my designs,” Gurevich said. “I am sick and tired of androgyny in fashion.
I want to see women beautiful, feminine and above all enjoying the effect they create.”
The show opened with a high-volume Vivaldi recording with live accompaniment by a handsome accordionist who fancied himself a rock star. Festooned with lace, feathers, fur, chains, crushed velvet and metallic brocades, the outfits wouldn’t have been out of place in a Broadway musical.
“The fairytales, the decorativeness have been important to him since he was a student. They are part of his
“These dresses are for the elite and celebrities,” Gurevich said. “It’s couture. It’s not for the stores.”
Gurevich has worked for Zac Posen and has made clothes for socialite Daphne Guinness and model Amanda Lepore. Hip-hop singer Lil’ Kim wears one of his dresses on the cover of her “If You Love Me” single. “He’s very glamour-heavy” said Alina Fayerman, 25, a friend and client of the designer who attended the show. “He makes you feel sexy. Any time I wear his stuff, I get more compliments than when I wear Fendi or Cavalli.”
